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Durante il mio soggiorno a Tolosa, di cui trovate l’articolo qui nella sezione “Travel” del blog, ho avuto modo di esplorare i suoi interessanti dintorni nella regione dei Midi-Pyrénéés, dintorni ricchi di arte e storia oltre che di incantevoli paesaggi naturali, di cui vi parlerò in questo e nel prossimo articolo.
Andando verso nord, si incontra uno dei più famosi borghi medioevali, che tutti abbiamo studiato a scuola per via di una delle più sanguinose pagine della storia dell’Europa medievale: Albi.
Albi e la sua storia:
Fondata dall’Impero Romano ed affacciata sul fiume Tarn, il suo nome originale era Albiga.
Gli Albigesi facevano parte del movimento ereticale dei Catari, presente in tutta la regione. Nel 1209 papa Innocenzo III decise di spazzare via l’eresia catara, condannata dalla Chiesa cattolica, e re Filippo II di Francia voleva assoggettare la contea semi-indipendente di Tolosa. Ebbe quindi inizio una terribile repressione nota col nome di Crociata degli Albigesi.
Le vittime furono gli innocenti abitanti di questa antica regione Languedoc, i quali si trovarono ad affrontare un esercito determinato a non fare prigionieri.
Nel luglio del 1209 i crociati penetrarono attraverso le porte della prima importante città catara, Beziers, massacrando tutti gli abitanti. Poi toccò ad Albi e a tutti gli altri paesini della regione.
I catari furono totalmente sterminati, e di loro non resta alcuna testimonianza se non qualche atto processuale.
Successivamente il paese è stato ripopolato, per arrivare fin ai giorni nostri conservando tutte le sue caratteristiche di borgo medievale dalle tonalità rosso mattone e dal ritmo “slow“, per dimenticarsi della vita frenetica e perdersi sognanti tra le sue stradine pedonali.
Cosa visitare ad Albi?
Tutto il centro storico della cittadina di Albi è un vero gioiellino e nel 2010 è stato inserito nella lista dei patrimoni dell’umanità dell’UNESCO. Albi è anche la città natale del famoso pittore Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec.
Il più spettacolare monumento è sicuramente la Cattedrale di Santa Cecilia, la più grande costruzione totalmente in mattoni al mondo!
Costruita su un edificio di culto preesistente e voluta dal vescovo Bernard de Castanet, fu iniziata il 15 agosto 1282, quando si stava spegnendo l’eco delle lotte contro l’eresia albigese e delle dispute armate con i conti di Tolosa.
Memore delle vicende belliche che avevano dilaniato quelle terre, Bernard de Castanet volle che la cattedrale avesse anche caratteristiche di una fortezza.
Alta ben 78 metri, in stile gotico, è un edificio imponente che toglie il fiato, e il suo interno è ancora più splendido, grazie alle volte dipinte e agli affreschi del Giudizio universale, sulla parte interna che chiude la navata.
Cordes sur Ciel: il paese delle fiabe
Poco distante da Albi, altrettanto caratteristico è il paese di Cordes sur Ciel, deliziosa cittadella medioevale che si inerpica su un colle dominante tutta la pianura sottostante.
Tipiche casette gotiche, botteghe artigiane, mura e campanili rendono questo borgo un suggestivo quadro della vita di tanti secoli fa, tanto da essere addirittura eletto il “paese preferito dai francesi” secondo France2!
Tutto intorno si estende una fertile e ondulata piana coltivata a viti e girasoli, e gli sterminati campi giallo-oro di questi bellissimi fiori mi ricordano i quadri di Van Gogh. Forse ognuno di questi girasoli rappresenta l’anima di un antico cataro strappato alla sua terra, che vuole rivivere attraverso lo stupore dei nostri occhi.
Sito Albi: www.albi-tourisme.fr
Sito Cordes sur Ciel: www.cordessurciel.fr[:en]During my stay in Toulouse, of which you can find the article here in the “Travel” section of the blog, I was able to explore its interesting surroundings in the Midi-Pyrénéés region, surroundings rich in art and history as well as enchanting natural landscapes, which I will tell you more about in this and in the next article.
Heading north from Toulouse, you will find one of the most famous medieval villages, which we’ve all studied at school, known for having written of one of the bloodiest pages in the history of medieval Europe: Albi.
Albi and its history
Founded by the Roman Empire and overlooking the Tarn river, its original name was Albiga.
The Albigensians were part of the heretic movement of the Cathars, present throughout the region. In 1209 Pope Innocent III decided to wipe out the Cathar heresy, condemned by the Catholic Church, and King Philip II of France wanted to subdue the semi-independent county of Toulouse. Thus they began a terrible repression known as the Albigensian Crusade.
The victims were the innocent inhabitants of this ancient Languedoc region, who faced an army determined not to take prisoners.
In July 1209 the crusaders penetrated through the gates of the first major Cathar city, Beziers, slaughtering all the inhabitants. It was then the turn of Albi and all the other villages in the region.
The Cathars were totally exterminated and no trace remains of them, except for some procedural act.
Best places to visit in Albi
With its pedestrial walks and its typical red tones, the historical center of Albi is a real gem and in 2010 it was included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. Albi is also the birthplace of the famous painter Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec.
The most spectacular monument is surely the Cathedral of Santa Cecilia, the largest brick construction in the world!
Built on a pre-existing cult building and commissioned by the bishop Bernard de Castanet, it was begun on 15 August 1282, when the echo of the struggles against the Albigensian heresy and of armed disputes with the counts of Toulouse was going off.
Mindful of the war vicissitudes that had torn those lands, Bernard de Castanet wanted the cathedral to also have the characteristics of a fortress.
78 meters high, in Gothic style, it is an imposing building that takes your breath away, and its interior is even more stunning, thanks to the painted vaults and the frescoes of the Last Judgment, on the inside that closes the nave.
Cordes sur Ciel: the fairytale village
Not far from Albi, just as characteristic is the village of Cordes sur Ciel, a delightful medieval citadel that climbs up a hill overlooking the whole plain below.
Typical gothic houses, artisan shops, walls and bell towers make this village an evocative picture of the life of many centuries ago, so much so that it was even elected the “favorite village of the French” according to France2!
All around is a fertile, undulating plain cultivated with vines and sunflowers, and the endless golden-yellow fields of these beautiful flowers remind us of Van Gogh’s paintings. I’d like to think that each of these sunflowers represents the soul of an ancient Cathar torn from his land, that will live forever through the amazement in our eyes.
Albi Tourism: www.albi-tourisme.fr
Cordes sur Ciel Tourism: www.cordessurciel.fr[:]
