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Continua il mio itinerario on-the-road attraverso l’affascinante Foresta Nera, nel sud-ovest della Germania!
La Schwarzwald è il più grande Parco Naturale tedesco, da 130 anni meta di viaggi benessere, viaggi sostenibili a contatto con la natura e vacanze attive!
La seconda tappa mi porta a Baiersbronn, la più grande cittadina del Baden-Württemberg, con 9 frazioni, 15mila abitanti e ben 8 chef stellati Michelin! La più alta concentrazione di ristoranti stellati in Germania!
Se vi siete persi la prima tappa del viaggio, andate a rivedere il mio articolo che parla di Bad Wildbad.
Escursioni e percorsi gastronomici: Baiersbronn e i suoi 550 km di sentieri
Intorno a Baiersbronn ci sono ben 550 km di sentieri segnati per fare trekking, nordic walking e mountain bike per tutti i gradi di preparazione, il Baiersbronner Wanderhimmel ovvero il paradiso delle escursioni!
Molti di questi sono certificati dal marchio di qualità Premiumwanderweg, una certificazione di biodiversità, morfologia, paesaggi unici e controllo del territorio (importanza della segnaletica)
E non finisce qui, perchè data la fama internazionale di questa zona per la propria cucina, molti percorsi sono addirittura concepiti come “percorsi gourmet” dove la camminata culmina in una delle tipiche baite in legno che servono specialità tipiche preparate con piante della foresta e prodotti delle fattorie locali.
La mia guida Gerd Geiser mi ha accompagnata lungo il Satteleisteig, dove abbiamo prima raggiunto una torre di osservazione con vista a 360 gradi su tutta la vallata, e poi la adorabile baita Wanderhütte che dal 1951 propone delizie caratteristiche secondo il principio “Taste the Black Forest” per una pausa dolce o salata!
Wellness Hotel Tanne: ecoluxury con sauna sull’albero e bagno del monaco
Nella frazione di Tonbach ho soggiornato in quello che è uno degli hotel più belli e particolari che io abbia mai visto: il Wellness Hotel Tanne, fondato e gestito con amore da 150 anni dalla famiglia Möhrle.
Come il nome suggerisce, il benessere, il relax e le coccole sono il punto focale di questa struttura. Ma non aspettatevi una classica spa, bensì una gamma di proposte veramente uniche!
La più spettacolare è senza dubbio la Treehouse sauna, la sauna a 10 metri d’altezza all’interno di una magnifica casa sull’albero: rilassarsi con vista panoramica! E al piano di sopra una bellissima mansarda relax.
Un’ esperienza unica e divertentissima è sicuramente il “Baumstammbad“, un antico rituale che usavano i monaci della foresta. Consiste nel fare il bagno all’interno del tronco scavato di un abete! Si può fare singolo, in coppia o con amici, e durante il trattamento viene effettuato peeling con sale marino, massaggio con olio di eucalipto, viene servita frutta e spumante! In una giornata di sole o sotto la neve è davvero strepitoso!
Inoltre, nella Tonbacher Waldbad dell’ Hotel Tanne troverete la sauna nella fornace di carbone, la sala relax con documentari naturalistici, lo “Schwitzstüble”, il “Plumpsklo”, la fontana Dorfplätzle, la sauna orologio…per scoprire cosa sono ovviamente dovete andare di persona 😉
L’ Hotel Tanne è certificato Wellness Stars Hotel che ne attesta qualità, sostenibilità e preparazione del personale, e vanta anche il marchio Viabono per il basso impatto ambientale. Fin dal suo ingresso ogni dettaglio è curato meticolosamente in pieno stile “foresta”: le rifiniture in legno, le stanze spaziosissime affacciate sui prati, l’antico orologio della chiesa mantenuto nella sua posizione originaria, il “bar degli alberi” con tanto di Bierkarussell, un tavolo girevole per assaggiare i vari tipi di birra!
Il ristorante dell’ Hotel Tanne si sviluppa su più sale attorno al buffet centrale, tutte diverse ed ognuna col proprio carattere: quella romantica con soffitto e sedie dipinte a mano, quella dedicata alla natura con tanto di baita di tronchi e scorci del bosco, la terrazza panoramica, la stube per fare le grigliate ed anche la sala-ristorante originale di 150 anni fa!
Davvero un posto eccezionale, l’emblema di quello che io definisco ecoluxury travel! 😍
Kulturpark Glashütte, la più importante vetreria della Foresta Nera
Tra i diversi musei da visitare nei dintorni spicca il Kulturpark Glashütte di Buhlbach, gli edifici storici di quella che è stata la più importante vetreria della Schwarzwald nel 18esimo e 19esimo secolo, nonchè fulcro economico ed identitario della zona per quattro generazioni.
Cosa rende questa vetreria cosi importante? Il suo successo e riconoscimento mondiale è avvenuto grazie all’invenzione della tuttora in uso bottiglia di champagne: la prima bottiglia al mondo resistente alla pressione! Pensate che sono state esportate in tutto il mondo oltre due milioni di Buhlbacher Schlegel soffiate a mano!
Baiersbronn Classic: 130 auto d’epoca in giro per la Foresta Nera
Un evento davvero particolare a cui ho avuto la fortuna di assistere a fine settembre è il Baiersbronn Classic, un rally d’auto d’epoca dagli anni ’20 agli anni ’70 che per quattro giorni hanno un percorso con 20 prove da superare in giro per la Foresta Nera. Prove speciali che non devono essere completate con la massima velocità bensì con la massima precisione.
Immaginatevi di guidare per i boschi e paesini della Schwarzwald e vedervi arrivare dei pezzi unici visti solo nei film o nei musei. Bellissimo!
La base per partenze e arrivi nonché per le sfilate fotografiche si trovava proprio davanti alla Kulturpark Glashütte, il che rendeva tutto ancora più suggestivo.
Con il Baiersbronn Classic si vuole ricordare la leggendaria gara di montagna Ruhestein, il primo evento motoristico in Germania dopo la Seconda Guerra Mondiale.
Un evento davvero sentito, non solo per appassionati ma un motivo di festa per tutti!
Foresta Nera on the road
Quante cose ho già visto, imparato, vissuto e assaggiato in questo magnifico viaggio…chissà la prossima tappa che sorprese mi riserverà! Per scoprirlo andate al prossimo articolo!
Ci vediamo sul Titisee amici!
www.germany.travel[:en]Second chapter of my on-the-road itinerary through the fascinating Black Forest in southwest Germany!
The Schwarzwald is the largest Natural Park in Germany. For over 130 years a renowned destination for wellness and sustainable holidays in contact with nature!
My second stop is Baiersbronn, the largest town in Baden-Württemberg, with 9 “hamlets”, 15 thousand inhabitants and 8 Michelin-starred chefs! The highest concentration of starred restaurants in Germany!
If you missed the first leg of the trip, go and review my article about Bad Wildbad.
Hiking and gastronomic routes: Baiersbronn and its 550 km of trails
Around Baiersbronn there are 550 km of marked trails for hiking, nordic walking and mountain biking for all levels of preparation, the “Baiersbronner Wanderhimmel” or hiking paradise!
Many of these are certified by the quality label Premiumwanderweg, a certification of biodiversity, morphology, unique landscapes and land control (importance of signage)
And it does not end here, because given the international fame of this area for its cuisine, many routes are even conceived as “gourmet routes” where the walk culminates in one of the typical wooden huts that serve regional specialties prepared with forest plants and products of local farms.
My guide Gerd Geiser accompanied me along the Satteleisteig, where we first reached an observation tower with a 360 degree view over the whole valley, and then the lovely Wanderhütte hut which has been offering typical delicacies according to the principle “Taste the Black Forest” since 1951…for a sweet or savory break!
Wellness Hotel Tanne: ecoluxury with tree sauna and monk’s bath
In the hamlet of Tonbach I stayed in one of the most beautiful and special hotels I’ve ever seen: Wellness Hotel Tanne, founded and managed with love for 150 years by the Möhrle family.
As the name suggests, wellness, relaxation and pampering are the focal point of this structure. Do not expect a classic spa, but a range of truly unique proposals!
The most spectacular one is undoubtedly the Treehouse sauna, the 10-meter-high sauna inside a magnificent tree house: relax with panoramic views!
A unique and amusing experience is definitely the “Baumstammbad“, an ancient ritual used by the forest monks. It consists in taking a bath inside the dug trunk of a fir tree! It can be done singly, in pairs or with friends, and during the treatment your body will enjoy a peeling with sea salt, a massage with eucalyptus oil, all this with fruit and sparkling wine served!
On a sunny day or under the snow it’s really something amazing!
Furthermore, in Hotel Tanne’s Tonbacher Waldbad you will find the sauna in the coal furnace, the relaxation room with nature documentaries, the “Schwitzstüble”, the “Plumpsklo”, the Dorfplätzle fountain, the sauna clock … to find out what they are, you obviously need go in person 😉
Hotel Tanne is certified Wellness Stars Hotel which means quality, sustainability and staff preparation, and also boasts the Viabono certification for its low environmental impact.
Right from the entrance every detail is meticulously taken care of in full “forest” style: the wooden finishes, the very spacious rooms overlooking the meadows, the ancient clock of the church kept in its original position, the “tree bar” with a super fun Bierkarussell, a revolving table to taste the various types of beer!
The restaurants of Hotel Tanne are spread over several rooms around the central buffet, all different and each with its own character: the romantic room with hand painted ceiling and chairs, the room dedicated to nature with a log cabin and glimpses of the forest, the panoramic terrace, the barbecue stube and the original 150-year-old restaurant-lounge!
Truly an exceptional place, the emblem of what I call ecoluxury travel! 😍
Kulturpark Glashütte, the most important glassworks in the Black Forest
Among the several museums to visit in the surrounding area I suggest you you take a visit at Kulturpark Glashütte in Buhlbach, the historic buildings of what was the most important Schwarzwald glassworks in the 18th and 19th centuries, as well as the economic and identity fulcrum of the area for four generations.
What makes this glassware so important? Its success and worldwide recognition has been achieved thanks to the invention of the still-in-use bottle of champagne: the first bottle in the world resistant to pressure! Over two million hand-blown Buhlbacher Schlegel have been exported worldwide!
Baiersbronn Classic: 130 classic cars around the Black Forest
A very special event that I was lucky enough to see at the end of September is the Baiersbronn Classic, a classic car rally from the ’20s to the’ 70s, that for four days drive around the Black Forest. Cars have to pass special tests that do not have to be completed with maximum speed but with maximum precision.
Imagine driving through the woods and villages and seeing unique pieces seen only in films or museums. What a sight!
The departures and arrivals were right in front of the Kulturpark Glashütte which made everything even more fascinating.
The Baiersbronn Classic wants to remember the legendary mountain race Ruhestein, the first motorsport event in Germany after the Second World War. A strongly felt event, not only for fans but a reason for everyone to celebrate together!
Foresta Nera on the road
So many things I’ve seen, learned, experienced and tasted in this magnificent journey … who knows what the next stop will reserve for me! To find out, go read the next article!
See you on the Titisee friends!!
